Chapter 5

KNITTING

Sometimes it seems that one should add the title of Financial Genius to the designation of mother and homemaker. No matter how thrifty or ingenious she is, there comes a point at which the budget balks and refuses to stretch another penny's worth. That is why mothers all over America are knitting two, purling two, trying to keep the budget balanced and the whole family in sartorial splendor.

Mothers and daughters who knit will find plenty of at­tractive reasons in the section that follows for keeping their needles click­ing. Daughters will go for the plaid skirt with matching stole, the three color jerkin; mother for the pearl-fastened cardigan, the long torso beaded blouse. Then there is an argyle pullover for a young athletic star, a sleeveless pull­over for the man of the house, an adorable pinafore for a very young miss and something wonderful afoot for every member of the household.

HOW TO KNIT

PRACTICE PIECES . . . Whenever a gauge appears in a direction, it is wise to make a practice piece to be sure that you have the same gauge as that specified before you pro­ceed with your work. BECAUSE—if your gauge is different, your article when finished will not be the same as the one shown in the picture. If you have fewer stitches to the inch, use a smaller needle. If you have more stitches to the inch, use a larger needle.

Guide to Right-Handed Knitters

If you work with your Right Hand, the fol­lowing steps show you the position in which your hands should be.

CASTING ON ... The First Step in Knitting

Putting the first stitches on the needle is called casting on.

1. To cast on 20 stitches in the material sug­gested, it will be necessary to measure off 16 inches of yarn (Fig. 1).
2. Make a slip loop 16 inches from the end of the yarn (Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4).
3. Place the loop on the needle and gently pull the ends of the yarn (not too tight, Fig. 5). The ball end of the yarn is to the right and the free end of the yarn is to the left.

WHAT TO DO WITH THE RIGHT HAND

1. Place the needle between the thumb and first finger, as if you were holding a pencil (Fig. 6).
2. Be sure that the loop is near the pointed end of the needle (Fig. 6).
3. Using the ball end of the yarn, place the yarn loosely over the first finger, under the sec­ond, over the third, under the fourth above middle joint (Fig. 6). The second and third fingers are very important because they keep the flow of yarn even, not too tight or not too loose, that is, they regulate the correct  tension.

WHAT TO DO WITH THE LEFT HAND

1. Grasp the free end of the yarn lightly against the left hand with the second, third, and fourth fingers (Fig. 7).
2. Place the yarn near the needle around and under the thumb (Fig. 8).

NOW YOU ARE READY FOR WORK

Bring the hands close together and adjust the yarn. For position see Fig. 9.

1. Notice that the yarn makes a loop around the left thumb.
2. Insert your needle through the underside of the loop (Figs. 9 and 10).
3. Bring the yarn in the right hand over the point of the needle from the back (Fig. 11).
4. Draw it through the loop (Fig. 12).
5. Gently pull the free end of the yarn with the left hand to tighten the stitch (Fig. 13).
6. Place the yarn around thumb as directed before and repeat Steps 2 to 5 inclusive until you have 20 stitches.

The Knit Stitch Plain Knitting or Garter Stitch

WHAT TO DO WITH THE LEFT HAND

1. In the left hand, hold the needle with the stitches just cast on. For position see Fig. 14.
2. The first stitch is held lightly by the index finger near the tip of the needle (Fig. 14).

WHAT TO DO WITH THE RIGHT HAND

1. Hold the needle between the thumb and the index finger, as if you were holding a pen­ cil (Fig. 15).
2. The yarn is placed over the first finger, under the second, over the third, and under the fourth above the middle joint. As you prac­tice knitting, you will learn to adjust the yarn so that you will get the best results (Fig. 15).

NOW YOU ARE READY FOR WORK

Bring your hands close together. Adjust the yarn and insert needle in first stitch as in Fig. 16.

FIRST ROW

1. Insert the right needle into the front of the first stitch on the left needle from the left side (Fig. 17).
2. Steady the right needle against the fore­finger of the left hand. Keep your yarn to the back of your work.
3. With the right hand bring the yarn over the point of the right needle (Fig. 18).
4. Draw the yarn through the stitch (Fig. 19).
5. Slip the old stitch off the left needle, thus completing the first stitch. A new row is being formed on the right needle (Fig. 20).
6. Always keep pushing your work up so that the stitch on which you are working is near the tip of the needle.
7. Repeat Steps 1 to 5 inclusive until all the stitches have been knitted off the left needle. An easy way to remember these steps is to re­peat to yourself: "In"—(Step 1—Fig. 17) — "Over"-(Step 2-Fig. 18)-"Through"-(Step 3-Fig. 19) -"Off"- (Step 4-Fig. 20).
8. Now you have knitted one row. You should have 20 stitches on the needle.

SECOND ROW and SUCCEEDING ROWS

1. Change the needle with the stitches into the left hand.
2. The empty needle is in the right hand. The yarn is over the first finger, under the second, over the third, and under the fourth above the middle joint (Fig. 15).
   NOTE: When using a long needle many knit­ters tuck one end of the right needle under the right arm. This relieves strain and enables you to knit faster.
3. Insert right needle into the front of the first stitch on the left needle from the right side and slip the first stitch off the left needle onto the right needle without knitting. Do this with the first stitch of each succeeding row and you will have a smooth edge known as a chain edge (Fig. 21).
   
   
4. Bring your yarn to the back of your work by passing it between the two needles.
5. Proceed as before (Fig. 21). Watch your work closely

NOTE: It is not necessary or even desirable to use the chain edge in all cases. It makes a smooth edge on straight knitting. The closed edge produced by knitting every stitch is espe­cially used when shaping various parts of a garment.

Binding Off

When you have worked 10 rows you are ready to finish off the swatch. This process is called binding off.

NOTE: Beginners have a tendency to bind off too tightly. To prevent this, many knitters use a needle two sizes larger in the right hand.

1. Slip the first stitch on the row off the left needle onto the right needle without knitting.
2. Knit the second stitch very loosely. (There are two stitches on the right needle).
3. Insert the left needle through the left side of the first stitch (Fig. 22).
4. Keep the yarn in the right hand very loose so that the second stitch remains loose.
5. Bring the first stitch forward over the sec­ond stitch and over the tip of the needle so that one stitch remains on the needle (Fig. 22).
6. Knit the next stitch loosely. There are two stitches on the right needle.
7. Repeat Steps 3 to 6 inclusive (Fig. 22).
8. When you come to the last stitch, clip your yarn about three inches from the needle. Bring the loose end through the stitch remaining on
   the needle and pull tightly. Darn in loose end so that it will not show.

HOW TO KNIT

Guide to Left-Handed Knitters

If you work with your Left Hand, the follow­ing steps show you the position in which your hands should be.

CASTING ON ... The First Step in Knitting

Putting the first stitches on the needle is called casting on.

1. To cast on 20 stitches in the material sug­gested, it will be necessary to measure off 16 inches of yarn (Fig. 1).
2. Make a slip loop 16 inches from the end of  the yarn (Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4).
3. Place the loop on the needle and gently pull the ends of the yarn (not too tight, Fig. 5). The ball end of the yarn is to the left and the free end of the yarn is to the right.

WHAT TO DO WITH THE LEFT HAND

1. Place the needle between the thumb and first finger, as if you were holding a pencil (Fig. 6).
2. Be sure that the loop is near the pointed end of the needle (Fig. 6).
3. Using the ball end of the yarn, place the yarn loosely over the first finger, under the sec­ond, over the third, under the fourth above middle joint (Fig. 6). The second and third fingers are very important because they keep the flow of yarn even, not too tight or not too loose, that is, they regulate the correct tension.

WHAT TO DO WITH THE RIGHT HAND

1. Grasp the free end of the yarn lightly against the right hand with the second, third, and fourth fingers (Fig. 7).
2. Place the yarn near the needle around and under the thumb (Fig. 8).

NOW YOU ARE READY FOR WORK

Bring the hands close together and adjust the yarn. For position see Fig. 9.

1. Notice that the yarn makes a loop around the right thumb.
2. Insert your needle through the underside of the loop (Figs. 9 and 10).
3. Bring the yarn in the left hand over the point of the needle from the back (Fig. 11).
4. Draw it through the loop (Fig. 12).
5. Gently pull the free end of the yarn with the right hand to tighten the stitch (Fig. 13).
6. Place the yarn around thumb as directed before and repeat Steps 2 to 5 inclusive until you have 20 stitches.

The Knit Stitch Plain Knitting or Garter Stitch

WHAT TO DO WITH THE RIGHT HAND

1. In the right hand, hold the needle with the stitches just cast on. For position see Fig. 14.
2. The first stitch is held lightly by the index finger near the tip of the needle (Fig. 14).

WHAT TO DO WITH THE LEFT HAND

1. Hold the needle between the thumb and the index finger, as if you were holding a pencil (Fig. 15).
2. The yarn is placed over the first finger, under the second, over the third, and under the fourth above the middle joint. As you prac­tice knitting, you will learn to adjust the yarn so that you will get the best results (Fig. 15).

NOW YOU ARE READY FOR WORK

Bring your hands close together. Adjust the yarn and insert needle in first stitch as in Fig. 16.

FIRST ROW

1. Insert the left needle into the front of the first stitch on the right needle from the right side (Fig. 17).
2. Steady the left needle against the fore­finger of the right hand. Keep your yarn to the back of your work.
3. With the left hand bring the yarn over the point of the left needle (Fig. 18).
4. Draw the yarn through the stitch (Fig. 19).
5. Slip the old stitch off the right needle, thus completing the first stitch. A new row is being formed on the left needle (Fig. 20).
   
   
6. Always keep pushing your work up so that the stitch on which you are working is near the tip of the needle.
7. Repeat Steps 1 to 5 inclusive until all the stitches have been knitted off the right needle. An easy way to remember these steps is to re­peat to yourself: "In"—(Step 1—Fig. 17) — "Over"-(Step 2—Fig. 18)-"Through"-(Step 3-Fig. 19)-"Off"-(Step 4-Fig. 20). Now you have knitted one row. You should have 20 stitches on the needle.

SECOND ROW and SUCCEEDING ROWS

1. Change the needle with the stitches into the right hand.
2. The empty needle is in the left hand. The yarn is over the first finger, under the second, over the third, and under the fourth above the middle joint (Fig. 15).

NOTE: When using a long needle many knit­ters tuck one end of the left needle under the left arm. This relieves strain and enables you to knit faster.

1. Insert left needle into the front of the first stitch on the right needle rom the left side and slip the first stitch off the right needle onto the left needle without knitting. Do this with the first stitch of each succeeding row and you will have a smooth edge known as a chain edge (Fig. 21).
2. Bring your yarn to the back of your work by passing it between the two needles.
3. Proceed as before (Fig. 21). Watch your work closely.

NOTE: It is not necessary or even desirable to use the chain edge in all cases. It makes a smooth edge on straight knitting. The closed edge  produced by knitting every stitch is espe­cially used when shaping various parts of a garment.

Binding Off

When you have worked 10 rows you are ready to finish off the swatch. This process is called binding off.

NOTE: Beginners have a tendency to bind off too tightly. To prevent this, many knitters use a needle two sizes larger in the left hand.

1. Slip the first stitch on the row off the right needle onto the left needle without knitting.
2. Knit the second stitch very loosely. (There are two stitches on the left needle).
3. Insert the right needle through the right side of the first stitch (Fig. 22).
4. Keep the yarn in the left hand very loose so that the second stitch remains loose.
5. Bring the first stitch forward over the sec­ond stitch and over the tip of the needle so that one stitch remains on the needle (Fig. 22).
6. Knit the next stitch loosely. There are two stitches on the left needle.
7. Repeat Steps 3 to 6 inclusive (Fig. 22).
8. When you come to the last stitch, clip your yarn about three inches from the needle. Bring the loose end through the stitch remaining on the needle and pull tightly. Darn in loose end so that it will not show.

For Lef t-Handed Pupils only:

Place a pocket mirror to the left of each illus­tration and you will see the exact position in which you work reflected in the mirror.

.

No. 864a Skirt Size 14 or 16

Materials: Sock and Sweater Yarn, Shrink-Resist Finish, 3 Ply (1 oz. skeins): 12 skeins of Dark Green, 8 skeins of Dryad Green and 3 skeins each of Daffodil and Scarlet. . . 29-inch Steel Circular Knitting Needle No. 3 (3 mm. size).
GAUGE: 71/2 sts make 1 inch; 10 rows make 1 inch.

BLOCKING MEASUREMENTS:

Length of skirt—32 inches. Width of skirt at hem—85 inches.

Note: When changing from one color to another always twist the unused color around the other to prevent making holes.

With Dark Green cast on 640 sts loosely. 1st row: * Knit 10 Dark Green, attach a ball of Dryad Green and (with Dryad Green k 2; k 2 Dark Green) twice; k 2 Dryad Green. Repeat from * across, ending with k 2 Dryad Green. Turn. 2nd row: * (P 2 Dryad Green, p 2 Dark Green) twice; p 2 Dryad Green, p 10 Dark Green. Repeat from * across. Starting at 3rd row knit, following chart across (20 sts worked). Repeat these 20 sts to end of row. On following row purl, following chart across (20 sts worked). Repeat these 20 sts to end of row. Continue in this manner until top of chart is reached (40 rows). Repeat these 40 rows until piece measures 33 inches in all, or length desired. Bind off.

VERTICAL STRIPES . . . Starting at lower edge of skirt, with crochet hook and Daffodil, make a row of chain sts along each of the two center sts of first Dryad Green sections to waistline (a stripe completed). With Scarlet, work a stripe along next Dryad Green sections to waistline. Alternate these 2 stripes around entire skirt (see illustration).

Sew edges neatly together to form back seam. Make a narrow hem all around lower edge of skirt. Work a rnd of sc at top of skirt. Join, then make a beading as follows:

BEADING . . . * Ch 6, skip 3 rows of knitting and make an sc in next st, ch 6, skip 3 sc at top of skirt and make sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. Join and break off.

Run elastic through beading and sew ends securely together.

No. 864b Jacket Sizes 12, 14 and 16

Materials: Sock and Sweater Yarn, Shrink-Resist Finish, 3 Ply (1 oz. skeins): 11 skeins of Dark Green for Sizes 12 and 14; 13 skeins for Size 16 . . . Plastic or Aluminum Knitting Pins, 1 pair No. 3 (3 mm. size) . . . Buttons . . . Small shoulder pads.

GAUGE: 71/2 sts make 1 inch; 10 rows make 1 inch.

BLOCKING MEASUREMENTS:

Sizes 12 14 16

Bust 32" 34" 36" Width across back at underarm 16" 17" 18" Width across each front at underarm 101/4" 103/4" 111/4" Width across back above armhole shaping 13" 133/4" 141/2" Length of side seam 131/2" 141/2" 151/2" Length from shoulder to lower edge 201/2" 22" 23" Length of sleeve seam 19" 191/2" 20" Width across sleeve at upperarm 13" 131/2"131/2"

RIGHT LOWER BACK . . . Cast on 62 sts 66 sts 70 sts and work in stockinette st (k 1 row, p 1 row), decreasing 1 st at side edge every 3rd row until there remain 55 sts 57 sts 59 sts On Sizes 12 and 14 only, work  without de­creasing until piece measures 3 inches, ending with a k row. On next row, bind off 6 sts and p across. Then k 1 row. Place on a stitch holder these 49 sts 51 sts 53 sts

LEFT LOWER BACK . . . Work as for Right Lower Back, reversing shapings (keeping cen­ter edge straight), until there remain, ending with a p row, 55 sts 57 sts 59 sts

On next row, bind off 6 sts, k across, then p 1 row and p across sts on stitch holder. There are on needle 98 sts 102 sts 106 sts

On Sizes 12 and 14 only, dec 1 st at both ends of next row and every 3rd row thereafter until there remain 90 sts 98 sts — Continue in stockinette st without decreasing until piece measures in all 5" 51/2" 6" Inc 1 st at both ends of next row and every 5th row 6th row 6th row thereafter until there are on needle 120 sts 128 sts 136 sts Work without increasing until piece measures in all 131/2" 141/2" 151/2" To Shape Armholes: Bind off 6 sts 7 sts 8 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at end of each row until there remain 98 sts 104 sts 110 sts

Work without decreasing until piece measures from 1st row of armhole shaping 3" 31/2" 31/2" Inc 1 st at both ends of next row and every 6th row 10th row 14th row thereafter until there are on needle 108 sts 112 sts 116 sts 

Work without increasing until piece measures from 1st row of armhole shaping 7" 71/2" 71/2" To Shape Shoulders: Bind off 13 sts at begin­ning of each row until there remain 30 sts 34 sts 38 sts Bind off.

LEFT FRONT . . . Cast on 70 sts 74 sts 78 sts Work in stockinette st, decreasing 1 st at side edge on every 3rd row until there remain 61 sts 67 sts 69 sts Work in stockinette st without decreasing un­ til piece measures in all, ending with a p row 5" 51/2" 6" Inc 1 st at side edge ton next row and at side edge every 3rd row thereafter until there are on needle 87 sts 91 sts 95 sts Work without increasing until piece measures in all, ending with a p row 131/2" 141/2" 151/2" To Shape Armhole: Bind off at beginning of next row 6 sts 7 sts 8 sts Dec 1 st at armhole edge every other row until there remain 76 sts 79 sts 82 sts Work without decreasing until piece measures from 1st row of armhole shaping 3" 31/2" 31/2" Inc 1 st at armhole edge on next row and every 6th row 8th row 12th row thereafter until there are on needle 81 sts 83 sts 85 sts Piece measures from 1st row of armhole shap­ing 51/2" 6" 6"

To Shape Neck: Bind off 26 sts 27 sts 27 sts and complete row. Work 1 more row. Then bind off 2 sts at neck edge on next row and every other row 3 times in all. Then dec 1 st at neck edge each row until there remain 42 sts 42 sts 45 sts Piece measures from 1st row of armhole shap­ing, ending at armhole edge 7" 71/2" 71/2"

To Shape Shoulder: Bind off 14 sts 14 sts 15 sts at beginning of next row and every other row thereafter until all sts are worked off.

RIGHT FRONT . . . Work exactly as for Left Front, reversing shapings and making a set of buttonholes when piece measures in all 41/2" 51/2" 61/2"

To make a set of buttonholes, work as follows: 1st row: Starting at front edge, k 2, bind off next 4 sts, k 8, bind off next 4 sts, knit to end of row. 2nd row: P across, casting on 4 sts to re­ place those bound off in previous row. Make a set of buttonholes every 11/2inches thereafter, always measuring from center of previous but­ tonhole, until 10 10 11 sets of buttonholes in all have been made.

SLEEVES . . . Cast on 72 sts 76 sts 76 sts Work in stockinette st for 4" 41/2" 41/2" Inc 1 st at both ends of next row and every 11th row thereafter until there are on needle 98 sts 102 sts 102 sts Work without increasing until piece measures in all 19" 191/2" 20"

To Shape Top: Bind off 6 sts 7 sts 8 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at end of each row until there remain 40 sts 34 sts 30 sts Dec 1 st at both ends of each row until 22 sts remain. Bind off remaining sts.

COLLAR . . . Cast on 98 sts and work in stockinette st for Vz inch. Inc 1 st at both ends of next row and every 4th row thereafter, until there are 108 sts on needle. Work without in­creasing until piece measures 21/2inches in all, ending with a knit row. Knit 1 row (half of collar is completed). Continue in stockinette st until piece measures 1/2inch from half way mark. Dec 1 st at both ends of next row and every 4th row thereafter until 98 sts remain. Work without decreasing until piece measures 5 inches in all. Bind off.

Block to measurements. Sew underarm and shoulder seams. Sew sleeve seams and sew in sleeves. Fold center front edges back on wrong side, having buttonholes overlap each other. Sew buttonhole edges together. Sew other edges in place. Sew Collar to neck edge. Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonholes. Make a 1-inch hem around lower edges and sleeves. Sew the bound-off edges at opening of back on wrong side.

No. 864c Stole

Materials: Sock and Sweater Yarn, Shrink-Resist Finish, 3 Ply (1 oz. skeins): 6 skeins of Dark Green, 5 skeins of Dryad Green and 2 skeins each of Scarlet and Daffodil . . . Plastic or Aluminum Knitting Pins, 1 pair No. 3 (3 mm. size).

GAUGE: 71/2 sts make 1 inch; 10 rows make 1 inch.

With Dark Green, cast on 180 sts loosely. Starting at 11th row on chart, work as for No. 864-A, beginning and ending each row with 5 Dark Green sts and working until piece measures 60 inches. Bind off.

STRIPES . . . Work as for No. 864-A, begin­ning and ending with a Scarlet Stripe.

FRINGE ... Cut 4 strands of Dark Green, each 12 inches long. Double these strands to form a loop. Insert hook in end of Stole and draw loop through. Draw loose ends through loops and pull up tightly. Make a fringe closely across each short end, matching stripes with the same color. Trim ends evenly.

No. 858 Blouse

Sizes 14, 16 and 18

Materials: Sock and Sweater Yarn, Shrink-Resist Finish, 3 Ply (1 oz. skeins): 8 skeins for Size 14; 9 skeins for Sizes 16 and 18 . . . Plastic or Aluminum Knitting Pins, 1 pair No. 2 (23/4 mm. size) and 1 pair No. 3 (3 mm. size) . . . 3 buttons.

GAUGE: 71/2 sts make 1 inch; 10 rows make 1 inch.

BLOCKING MEASUREMENTS:
Sizes 14 16 18
Bust 34" 36" 38"

Width across back or front at underarm 17" 18" 19" Length from shoulder to lower edge 20" 201/2" 211/2" Length of side seam 13" 131/2" 14" Length of sleeve seam (finished) 10" 101/2" 11" Width across sleeve at upperarm 13" 13" 131/2" BACK ... With No. 2 needles, cast on loosely 112 sts 120 sts 128 sts Work in ribbing of k 2, p 2, for 21/2 inches.

Change to No. 3 needles and work in pattern as follows: 1st and 2nd rows: * P 2, k 2. Re­peat from * across. 3rd and 4th rows: * K 2, p 2. Repeat from * across. The last 4 rows constitute pattern. Work in pattern until piece measures 4 inches in all.

Keeping continuity of pattern, inc 1 st at both ends of next row and every 11th row 11th row 14th row thereafter until there are on needle 128 sts 136 sts 142 sts Continue in pattern without increasing until piece measures in all 13" 131/2" 14" To Shape Armholes: Bind off 9 sts at begin­ning of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at end of every row until there remain 100 sts 106 sts 112 sts Continue in pattern without decreasing until piece measures from 1st row of armhole shap­ing 3" 3" 31/2" Keeping continuity of pattern, inc 1 st at both ends of next row and every 6th row 8th row 10th row thereafter until there are on needle 112 sts 116 sts 120 sts Work Without increasing until piece measures from 1st row of armhole shaping 7" 7" 71/2" To Shape Shoulders: Bind off 13 sts 13 sts 14 sts at beginning of next 6 rows.

Bind off remaining 34 sts 38 sts 36 sts

FRONT . . . Work exactly as for Back until there remain after armhole shaping 100 sts 106 sts 112 sts

LEFT FRONT .. . Work in pattern across 50 sts 53 sts 56 sts Cast on 18 sts 19 sts 20 sts Turn and work over this set of sts only, keep­ing continuity of pattern, until piece measures from 1st row of armhole shaping 3" 3" 31/2"

Now work in pattern, increasing 1 st at arm-hole edge on next row and every 6th row 8th row 10th row thereafter, until 6 5 4 increases in all are made BUT when piece measures 4 inches from cast on sts, shape neck as follows: 1st row: Starting at front edge, bind off 28 sts 31 sts 31 sts work across in pattern. Work 1 row without in­creasing. Bind off 2 sts at beginning of next row and every other row twice. Dec 1 st at neck edge each row 3 times in all (this com­pletes neck shaping). Continue with increases at armhole edge until there are on needle 39 sts 39 sts 42 sts Work without increasing until piece measures from 1st row of armhole shaping, ending  at armhole edge 7" 7" 71/2"

To Shape Shoulder: Bind off 13 sts 13 sts 14 sts at beginning of next row and every other row thereafter until all sts are bound off.

RIGHT FRONT . . . Cast on 18 sts 19 sts 20 sts and, starting where sts were divided, work in pattern across remaining 50 sts 53 sts 56 sts to correspond with opposite side, reversing shapings and making a set of buttonholes when piece measures V2 inch from cast-on sts and every 1% inches thereafter, always meas­uring from center of previous buttonhole, until 3 sets of buttonholes in all are made— to make a set of buttonholes work as follows:

1st row: Starting at front edge, work in pat­tern across 3 sts, bind off next 6 sts, work in pattern across 6 sts, bind off next 6 sts, and work in pattern to end of needle. 2nd row: Work in pattern, casting on 6 sts to replace each set bound off.

SLEEVES . . . With No. 3 needles, cast on 74 sts 78 sts 82 sts Work in pattern for 21/2inches. Keeping con­tinuity of pattern, inc 1 st at both ends of next row and every 5th row 6th row 7th row thereafter until there are on needle 98 sts 98 sts 102 sts Work in pattern without increasing until piece measures in all 11" 111/2" 12" To Shape Top: Bind off 7 sts 8 sts 9 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at end of each row until there remain 40 sts 36 sts 34 sts Dec 1 st at both ends of each row until 22 sts remain. Bind off.

COLLAR . . . With No. 3 needles, cast on loosely 132 sts 136 sts 140 sts Work in pattern, decreasing 1 st at both ends of every other row until there remain 112 sts 116 sts 120 sts Work 1 more row.

Dec 1 st at beginning of next row. Work in pattern across 13 sts (14 sts on right hand needle); bind off the next 82 sts 88 sts 92 sts (1 st remains on right hand needle), work in pattern across, decreasing 1 st at end of row. Turn and work in pattern over these sts only, decreasing 1 st at both ends of every other row until 6 sts remain. Dec 1 st at outside edge every other row until all sts are worked off. Attach yarn where sts were bound off on oppo­site side and work to correspond.

Block pieces to measurements. Sew side and shoulder seams. Sew sleeve seams and sew in sleeves. Line collar and sew in place. Fold right front flap under and sew, matching but­tonholes. Overcast buttonholes. Sew left flap back. Sew on buttons to correspond with but­tonholes. If desired, sew in shoulder pads. Make a 1-inch hem around lower edges of sleeve.

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